Quote of the Day: Chris Onstad tells it like it is
This is an awesome smack-down from Chris Onstad of Achewood:
LAT: In general, what type of bars and restaurants do you like?
CO: I almost feel like this question is designed to provoke me into saying that I’m tired of impossibly precious Thomas Keller-type places. Well, fine, you’ve gone and done it. Sure, I fell for the hype. Sure, I’ve had “braised” saddle* of Elysian Fields™ lamb. And now, years later, I feel foolish about it. Six years ago my wife and I spent four hundred dollars on lunch at the French Laundry. The prix fixe was like $110 per person. Now it’s $240. And you can hear the backlash taking form. The public can endure only so many fresh-ground spices dusted artfully across otherwise empty expanses of white porcelain, can handle only so many television hacks spooning godawful foam over things. I like local places, neighborhood places, where a hot forkful of homemade spaghetti bolognese is treated less like a quivering unicorn egg and more like the tough old workhorse it is. Food can be art and chefs have been highly underappreciated, but there’s a lot of fringe bullshit going on.
Sing it, brother!
tim boucher said,
i like the quivering unicorn egg thing